I went to my annual Christmas potluck for work that my manager hosts, and I decided to make cream puffs. I had made them two years ago and everyone seemed to like them, but last year I did Oreo truffles instead. I figured I would bring the cream puffs back, though, because I had stumbled across a new recipe on YouTube. I also still wanted to do something Oreo related, so I picked up extra dark dutch-process cocoa powder.
Choux au Craquelin was the new recipe, and I won’t pretend that I knew exactly what I was doing in the first place. I tried to follow the recipe, but I wanted to make a bigger batch so I doubled the ingredients.
Mistake number 1: Assuming proportions for certain things always scale the same as others. The first batch of choux dough I tried making was a disaster. When it came time to mix in the eggs, one at a time, I figured I would just follow the doubled quantity. Instead of thinking to myself “hmmm…this is looking the way I recall…I should stop adding eggs” I just went for it and kept adding the eggs. I probably could have gotten away with one or two less. The end result was too thin and practically poured out of the tip of the bag when I went to pipe it onto the baking sheets. Thankfully I had planned ahead and bought extra ingredients.
Mistake number 2: Sometimes, substitutions for ingredients require more (or less) than you think. I was planning to make an Oreo-esque cream puff (thus the extra dark cocoa powder) and I wanted to make the craquelin topping stand out in a way that screamed “Oreo cookies and cream” so I tried to substitute baking shortening for the butter. According to what I had read online and on the side of the packaging, it was practically a one for one substitution. Unfortunately, there is something about butter (and probably the ratios of flour and sugar) that requires a little extra if you want to substitute it with shortening. I just wanted to have the craquelin stay white after baking, which the few test ones I made did end up working out that way. The texture wasn’t right though, and it basically crumbled off in spots. So I scrapped that.
So while the first batch of regular choux dough was a bust, I learned from that mistake. I found a handy tip through SeriousEats about measuring the temperature of the dough when it’s being cooked on the stove. I needed to get it up to 175°F so that the flour gelatinizes. So, with that, I made a successful batch of regular choux dough, bagged it up, and set aside to start on the Oreo choux dough and another try at the craquelin. The second attempt at the craquelin was also a bust, but the Oreo choux dough came out great on the first try.
Eventually, over the course of about 4-5 hours of baking and experimenting, I did end up with very dark cream puffs that tasted very much like the cookie part of an Oreo. It was about 1:00AM at this point so I put everything away and saved the regular choux dough for the next afternoon before the party.
Definitely a learning experience. I also have a lot of extra cocoa powder left over, so I’ll probably be making cream puffs for the next several months. Oh well, makes for good practice!